Dear Reader - Peace Corps Mozambique

Come along as I volunteer for two years with the Peace Corps in Mozambique. I will be sharing my experiences, pieces of wisdom I come across, and probably descriptions of the food I'm eating. Please keep in mind that this site is exclusively my own and does not represent the views or opinions of the Peace Corps or the Government of the United States of America.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Update #4: Phone Number

Dear Reader,

Before the power goes out for the third time in the Internet cafe: The cell phone number that I can be reached at during reasonable evening hours (before 9:30, 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time) is: (country code 0258) then 825966100. WARNING: Though it is free for me to receive calls, it will not be cheap for you. Perhaps www.skype.com might have reasonable rates?
Here are a few photos I have managed to throw in so you can see a little of what my life has been like recently! Sorry for the rush.
1. The beach in Inhambane City where I am doing my site visit to see how other health volunteers live and work. Beautiful!

2. Seeing a live training of large rats from Tanzania in an amazing demining project! www.apopo.com

3. Okay, I've been working very hard... I needed some time to appreciate how beautiful this country is.

4. Oh, and I've also gotten to hang out with this little guy for the last few days.

5. My host brothers eating pancakes and maple syrup. Delicious!


Allright! Please have faith that I am doing wonderfully. I am. I will post more when I can.

PEACE (of mind)

Kevin

ps. it looks like some trainees have been receiving packages in the mail. The issue is that if sent not by DHL or UPS, it costs me to pick up the packages... that said, if you do send something, please undervalue (alot!!!) the costs of what you have included. Also, to keep it from being tampered with, please put lots of religious paraphanalia on the outside. It's cheap, but it helps me receive them.

pps. It took me 2 hours to post this. I am loving having to relearn patience...

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Update #3: Training - The Simple Life

Dear Reader,

I so hope that this email finds you doing well. Hopefully you have been able to find some inspiration recently, even if in small places. My challenge for you today is that you have to do something kind for someone else and keep it a secret. [I'm raising my eyebrows up and down while posing this challenge]
I am currently in an 'Internet' as it is called here in the capital city of Maputo. This has been my first chance to contact you via email since leaving the hotel we were staying at in Maputo and moving outside of the cities to live with host families for ten weeks of training. It is difficult to even begin telling you about the enormous amount that has happened over the last almost two weeks, but I will give it a good shot. I have about 45 minutes to say what I can.... Let's do it!
Perhaps I ought to touch on two central (and dominant) themes in my life here. Firstly, the host family that I am living with. The second, that I will discuss forthwith (whatever that means), is training to be a Health Volunteer. [Please note: I am omitting names of places and people specifically, there is a reason to do so, I am told].
I was honestly excited about moving in with a host family. The challenge of only communicating in Portuguese (and the occasional hand gesture) as well as getting the inside perspective on home life in Moçambique was enough to make me jump out of the Peace Corps van and into the arms of my host mother. As it turns out, I have a vibrant family of a mother, father, sister and three brothers. I am the eldest, which is awesome. I can finally understand all the bizarre birth-order issues my older sister always was talking about. Okay that's not totally true, because middle children are still big bundles of mystery to me...
Let me outline my daily experience: I wake up at about 5:30 in the morning in order to get up, take a bucket bath [meaning I walk outside to our casa de banho - "ca-zah dee bahn-yo" - having heated some water on the stove (gas or charcoal at our house)and mixed it with cold water, then using a coffee can with holes punched in the bottom to shower, soap up, scrub, and rinse], come inside to iron some clothing for the day, pack my backpack, eat a breakfast of usually friend egg on bread with Milo (vaguely like hot chocolate) that is way more than suits my basic needs, brush my teeth outside, then walk to a stop where the van picks us up to go spend the day doing sessions of training. By the time I get home from classes there is maybe an hour of daylight left, and I either help with preparing dinner, play soccer with my brothers and the neighbors in the front yard, or continue working on making a straw mat called an estera (esh-tair-ah) that my brother taught me how to make. Then it's dinner time and off to bed! I usually am studying 30-60 minutes daily as well, to keep the portuguese coming.
Now let me comment thusly: As mundane as that day might seem - every moment holds such enormous opportunity for learning that it is almost difficult to believe. Take for example that morning routine... waking up as the sun is starting to peak over the cement and corrugated tin homes in our community - hearing roosters crowing and mothers sweeping debris from their dirt front yards. I get to drink directly from the well of my host family's experience [granted I am drinking from my own cup, which will be a permanent limitation] and simply taking in every detail. The afternoon especially is such a rich time for me.
As I do not have a whole lot of time left to write, allow me to list for you a few very special experiences I've had in the last two weeks:
1. Believe it or not I was able to prepare pancakes and maple syrup for my host family a week ago (with a little cinnamon...) from some supplies I packed in my bags. They loved it! My favorite moment was when my host father asked for some bread after he had finished to sop up the extra syrup from his plate. That for me spelled success. Oh, also, I shared some of the granola that my Aunt Penny and I had made before I left with my host family. The results were mixed. That is, it was an instant hit, but caused a little bit of controversy because my host mother in particular tried to hide it and horde it for herself. Haha, it was so funny trying to explain where cranberries come from...!
2. Special moment two was without a doubt the evening that my host brother taught me a childrens' song in portuguese. I had out my little guitar, and we put it to some music... and the whole family joined in! I sing for them once in a while, and my guitar skills are slowly filling in the gaps. Singing together, and laughing at the silly song was a dear moment for me. Later my host mother taught me a song that they sing as grace before meals, as well.
3. Not many nights ago I was trying to ask my host mother and father a question over dinner. I was asking them about local sayings and proverbs - because I like to know how a culture expresses some commonly held beliefs. My host mother, though, did not take my question as maybe I internally intended. She started to tell me about her childhood and what it was like growing up. (maybe because I asked her about things her father used to tell her when she was a girl). She told me about her life in the central part of the country. Then she went into her life as a teenager during the civil war here in Moçambique. She told me how when they were living in the bush to escape the violence - her father lit a fire because it was so cold. The soldiers saw the fire, came to their family, and took him away. They killed him with knives, she said. My father, also, told me of how he was shot in both legs and the arm in the late 1980's. This, Reader, is the real thing. That is why I am here, to hear the stories and see what is really happening in the world around us.

Well I have to end here. There is much more to tell, and I will do so next chance I get. In the meantime, I hope that you will indeed have a wonderful day today. Please know that I am doing very well, and that my spirits are very high. Take good care -

PEACE (of mind)

Kevin

Sunday, October 01, 2006

Update #2: Arrived in Moçambique!

Dear Reader,

I hope that this message finds you doing very well. I also hope that there is something that you can do today that will be fulfilling in some way.
I write to you from a computer in the hotel where we have stayed for the past three days here in Maputo, Moçambique (locally pronounced 'Moh-zam-bee-kee'). This won't be a long post, but I will try to fill you in on the details. By the way, I am so excited to be here! When I think about it, I started my application for the Peace Corps about one year ago, and had been thinking about it for long before that time. Today is the day that my experience begins in earnest.
It took about 17 hours of flying time to get from JFK airport in New York City to arrive in Johannesburg, South Africa. The group of 55 trainees (I didn't know it was that big until I arrived for our two days in Philadelphia) stayed the night at a fancy hotel near the airport there. The next morning we went back to the airport to fly about 40 minutes at most to Maputo (pronounced 'Mah-poo-too'). The flight was exciting as we chattered nervously, looking out the windows and threw around elementary phrases in Portuguese. Ha, our high spirits alone could have carried that plane all the way to the capital city!
We landed, walked through customs, and stepped outside the airport after finding our luggage. (I have a lot of luggage, two huge bags a backpack and a guitar... which I'm not sorry I brought). It's not like me to pack too much, but for two years I'm hoping to give myself a good chance at succeeding. The air in front of the airport smelled familiar to me - - like something burning in the distance. My imagination would love to have it signify some distant adventure, or some inner burning personified by the breeze blowing across the predictably modest parking lot - - but perhaps not. It smelled like some other places I've been, and liked, and that alone was thrilling.
We boarded a chapa (pronounced 'shah-pa') [not unlike the classic trotro from Ghana, dolmus in Turkey, etc.] and went straight to the fancy hotel where we would be living for the next three days. In fact, we were not to be leaving that hotel for the next three days. We have lived here, participated in workshops, trainings, receivedinoculationss [if you couldn't identify us by our western style of dress or by our overall amateurPortuguesee, you could just life our sleeves to reveal red welts from our friends rabies and tetanus]. We have eaten a buffet-style meal every meal, slept on comfortable mattresses, and taken hot showers.
That, however, has come to an end. Today, as I previously alluded to, we move in with our host families! I will be living with a family outside of Maputo for the next 10 weeks (give or take), spending the days in training for language, technical [health], and culture. Meanwhile, I'll be spending all my extra time with a family, learning about their home life, sharpening my Portuguese (which I am happy to say is coming along relatively quickly), and simply drinking deep for the first time of the Mozambican experience. That, is one of the primary reasons I came here. That and assist the people of this country in however miniscule a manner that I can in being more apt to assist themselves.
I also came here, Reader, to share with you these experiences - as to enrich our knowledge of who we are as members of an international community. I am so pleased that you are here with me, even if in spirit alone. My intention is to learn what I can, do good work, and bring back to you any insight that might be useful to us all. I hope to have done that just now, also.
Well I will update you when I can, but in the meantime please take care of yourself. I will miss you as I take the next step along this path I have chosen.

PEACE (of mind)

Kevin


ps.Iff you are interested in my brother and sister-in-law's adventures with the Peace Corps in Peru, South America - - simply see their web log at http://theadventuresofbenjaminandlibby.blogspot.com . Exciting!