Update #26: As We Enter The Dry Season

Dear Reader,

I hope that you are in high spirits as you read this. I miss you. I send you my warmest regards from here in Mozambique.

How are you? (Simple question, complex answer right? Why not take a moment to really consider this question? This is a chance to take a deep breath -- amazing how everything slows down.) What is something you’re working hard on these days? What is something that made you laugh recently?

It has been some time since I sat down and told you what has been going on here. Now is that time. Please join me as I recount some recent goings on as I enter my twentieth month in this experience:

Since we last were in contact, the flood waters have disappeared. The work of cleaning up and planting new crops has gotten underway. Things are returning to normal. Now we are entering the dry season.

Reader, because so much time has passed, this update will be written in list format. Here are some noteworthy events, good and a few not so good, from the last two months of my life here:

· I was asked to spend an afternoon running a workshop on teambuilding and HIV-related issues at a local Italian-run organization for the people who work there. The event was a lot of fun, and by using a number of recreation-based games we were able to broach sensitive topics involving HIV (getting tested, in particular). [If the numbers are even close to true, Reader, one in five people in my community are currently HIV-positive. Major obstacle: When we encourage people to get tested in my community, who in the room is not thinking that it’s possible that they are, right now, HIV-positive? The question is: This is a virus that can remain asymptomatic for 10-15 years – and in that period of time how many partners have I had? Not to mention that someone I care about is, by the numbers, also might be HIV-positive. It’s a complex and deeply personal issue.] Well it was wonderful to teach some new games to people that work hard in our community to better the lives of others, to see them laugh and play together. There was a lot of positive feedback. Especially for the human knot, who knew?! My favorite, however, was making kazoos out of papaya leaves and performing the Mozambican national anthem with about 50 adults. The word that comes to mind: epic.

· My work situation continues to improve. [When I refer to my work situation I mean the primary project I was assigned to work with – the Junior Farmer Field and Life Schools program funded by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations] The team I am now working with is proactive and interested in the work we are doing. (I tell you Reader, good people - - that is the key to a positive work experience, and often times success. In other words: There ain’t no training you can send someone to to get a better attitude or to like their work any more.) Well anyways we have been charged with visiting elementary schools that are new participants in our program. Our work is even getting praised by our boss in Chimoio! Originally I was intimidated by doing solo monitoring visits, but they have turned out to be exhilarating, and empowering! Picture this:

I catch a ride to a small community about an hour south of where I live to visit a school that’s just joined our program. I step down from the pickup truck onto the edge of the highway. The driver stops me to make sure I know where I’m going. It’s mid morning and warm. All I’ve got is a pen and some paper. I walk down a dirt path amongst the tall grass. I ask where the elementary school is, in Sena, our local language. I arrive at the school, sit with the Director, get the information I came for. We shake hands, I leave heading down a new path towards the main road. I see the local government head, we chat. I sit with some young men who sell chickens and honey on the roadside. It is late afternoon, hold anything up to the light and it is beautiful. I catch a ride home. I get filthy during the trip on some plastic sheeting. I walk in the front door - - and I did it alone, using only the resources I’ve cultivated here.

· Unfortunately, a friend who I met here many months ago passed away. He died of complications with AIDS. I knew he was sick, but knowing doesn’t seem to be preparation enough. I have struggled to come to terms with his passing. I saw him only a few weeks before his death. I won’t go much into detail – another friend, a Volunteer, posted a passage about him on his weblog. If you are interested in hearing more about this, click on this link: http://souaqui.blogspot.com/2008_03_01_archive.html .

· While on this topic, I must mention the untimely death of another friend, this one a participant in the Seeds of Peace program I worked with. Mehzabeen, a bright and motivated young woman from India, was killed in a car accident there only a few weeks ago. She was active in peacemaking with her peers and I am proud to have known her. Her memory serves for me as a reminder of how much good we can do with so little effort and with such effortless grace.

· On a more positive note, Reader, during two weeks in April I was fortunate enough to participate in not one but two young men’s training conferences in Chimoio and then Nampula. I participated in this last year, as you may recall. The training is called JOMA (Jovens Para Mudança e Acção). We spend a week learning various techniques in four project areas: photography, journalism, community art, and theater. By empowering young men to think creatively and by teaching them a solid skill set, it is much easier for them to develop a strong identity, think critically and ultimately choose healthy behavior. We also focus on how gender issues affect our communities. Needless to say it is an exciting week and strong bonds are formed in a short period of time. Well Reader, I have the distinct pleasure of running the evening activities during each week. I have to admit I feel lucky to have such a fun job. We dress up in wild costumes and do all sorts of exciting activities to keep our young men excited and engaged throughout the week. My personal favorite? Well it’s probably the nine-member banana-eating relay race. It was incredible, and came down to the last third of a banana… after 44 bananas it was still tied! I’ll try to post photos as soon as I can.

One very positive outcome of the conferences though is that we bring in a mobile HIV testing unit to give our participants a chance to confirm their status in a safe place with supportive peers all around. I am so pleased to announce that of those who got tested (and many did), about 80 percent of the tests were first-time tests. This means that many of our participants were able to take the test for the first time in their lives and discuss with a counselor how to continue down a healthy path for the rest of their lives (no matter what their HIV status). I consider this a huge success Reader.

· I should also add that during the time before these conferences I was asked to help with the manuals for the Theater component of JOMA. I spent hours helping my Volunteer friend compile games and explanations of various theater concepts into a format easily accessible to groups of secondary school students here in Mozambique. We are already hearing success stories!

· After two weeks of nonstop work at the JOMA conferences I was quite lucky to get to visit an area near Nampula called Ilha de Moçambique. After a day on the fascinating island, a friend and I found (with lots of help) an incredibly beautiful beach. We stayed there in a small hut made of wood, palm leaves and grass for 3 days. I will never forget the full moon rising over the calm Indian Ocean, dark orange. I went for night swims alone, read in the shade overlooking turquoise waves, and wrote songs by lamplight. It was extremely restorative and exactly what I needed. Reader I wish you could have been there with me, eating fresh grilled fish bought direct from the fisherman. It was incredible!

· I have had several productive conversations about sexual health with individuals in my community. A young man I work with on a micro-business project (more on that in a second) and I had a frank discussion about proper condom use. (This may seem bizarre, but it is very much one of the main reasons I am here in this community, to disseminate correct information about prevention of sexually transmitted diseases and HIV). Also, in a complete fluke, I got a ride in the same car as our local government leader who is responsible for our entire district. We got into a conversation about sexuality and condom use. This is extremely important, because if our community leaders are not active in supporting health initiatives (including setting good examples for the people to follow) then our work is that much more difficult. I was mildly embarrassed to discuss sensitive issues with him, but I am happy to say it was a rare opportunity to deliver a health message direct to someone with a tremendous impact on my community. [Why am I telling you all this Reader? Well because as a believer in the grassroots approach to helping people live healthy lives, these two conversations are examples of the type of work I am doing here in Mozambique. It’s all small conversations and baby steps, but to me it is the only way to access true change – by finding a way into a person’s thought process during those few seconds in which they are trying to decide whether to use a condom or not. That is one example, of course]

· I am happy to report that the micro-business project I am involved with has been quite successful. The 15-year-old young man who is selling phone credit (we all use a pay-as-you-go cell phone system) as a business venture is making good money! Actually, his mom and dad were forced to move into a resettlement camp after the floods, and he is responsible for paying for his schooling, clothes, food, etc. because they cannot. I am so proud of him for his hard work and his honest efforts. I will keep you updated. Our business plan is for him to have the capital to run the business all by himself within the next six months. Knock on wood.

· Oh, and I would perhaps jeopardize my (self-appointed) title as greatest uncle in the world by forgetting to mention the birth of my niece, Aliya Claire! My sister Shayna and brother-in-love Ramon, as well as their first child Sabina are all healthy and very happy. The night she was born I was playing hand drums in a small concert with the music group I play with under a clear starlit sky. (for photos and further inspiration see my brother and sister-in-love's blog: http://theadventuresofbenjaminandlibby.blogspot.com .)

Well that’s most of what I have been up to. This past week I have been sick
unfortunately, but am happy to report I’m finally feeling better. I should be 100% for the imminent arrival of my mother and father here in Mozambique! I could not be more excited, more thrilled to host them as they visit and see a glimpse of what life is like here. I will tell you more about our adventures together when I have the chance.

And so, between planning for their visit and thinking about the final 6 months of my service as a Peace Corps Volunteer, I must admit Reader I am a bit overwhelmed. I have done a lot of thinking about my goals for these months to come. I think I have decided to simply keep working hard and take every opportunity to soak in every detail of my life here. [Yesterday afternoon for example, I was tired of staying home sick, so I walked over to the center of town where a traditional music and dance competition was being held. It was amazing! How easily I forget the joys of traditional rhythms. Or better yet, the smiling faces of groups of women as they chant and dance in their matching capulanas.] What I seem to be saying Reader, is that I am so glad I’m here. I am so glad that we can take this time together to catch up and for you to come along with me on this wonderful journey.

That’s all for now. Please take good care of yourself and those around you. I will be in touch again soon. Until then –

PEACE (of mind)

Kevin

Ps. I will try to post some photos soon.

Pps. A brief thank you to the musical inspiration of many local musicians here where I live. I do not know many of their names. Theirs is music heard but once -- much like a tangerine: a gift of nature, unique and once-in-a-lifetime.